So before any more boxes show up..
The engine in the car - the one I half rebuilt last winter - is on it's way out.
Fortunately, it's the half I didn't rebuild that seems to be having issues

I'm putting together a new engine before the current one gives up completely.

Ah, that's where all my oil is!
I sourced the second engine from a scrapyard in Hartlepool after the yard's owner posted an advertisement on the C1OC facebook page a few months ago.
I wouldn't recommend the place.
My plan for the engine is to tear it down, bring everything up to spec and port the cylinder head just as I did the last one - I've since picked up a flex extension for the dremel so hopefully we can improve this time around.

I went for a full Elring gasket set based on how much better their stem seals were over the FAI set.
It includes the crankshaft seal for both ends and everything else that I almost forgot last time. £86 ebay: doctor_car_parts.
Clutch is an LUK and hopefully performs better than the Exedy fitted to the current engine.
The valves in the replacement engine should be ok so there's no need to mess about reshimming the tappets and stuff in this new head.
I will be carrying the valve spring shims over to increase seat pressures though, it seems to be working pretty well just now pending an inspection of the tappets & bores in the current cylinder head.
I'll be using the ported intake system from the current engine.
As for the cam timing - I'm going back to the standard timing as I said I might, because...
To pair the engine I have a 2007 Yaris 1KR gearbox 

I got this from an auto salvage place near Liverpool - Knowsley Car Dismantlers - This guy was exceptionally good; all the recovered parts were neatly tagged & stacked on shelving units in a big dry warehouse. Everything was clean. They'd even coated the gearbox's splined shaft and release fork in copper grease before storing it.
As you know, the Yaris gearbox has a shorter final drive ratio than the bugs as well as the linear gear ratios of the early boxes.
It also has a hydraulic clutch release lever which will have to be converted. We'll look at these things later as well as how the gearing relates to the cam timing I was using.
I've splashed out on some RedLine MT90 racing gear oil at £21 per litre for this thing

low friction = less power lost in the transmission.
Whilst the car is without engine, I need to replace all the copper brake pipe on the chassis as I've had advisories the past 2 MOT and now the fluid level is dropping.
An impromptu visit to a 3rd scrappy saw me leave with a tidy set of spare brake calipers & discs, which may get used, as well as some solid oem front wishbones that I've fitted with
Powerflex competition polybushes.

I'd also like to make a strut brace for the rear turrets and seam weld the front subframe in lieu of that brace I destroyed years ago - both of these will be designated 'activities for procrastination' during the build.
As I don't want to be here til April this time, I've booked a weekend stay in the Trossachs for the beginning of December

Setting targets
