C1OC - CityBugClub - Citroen C1, Peugeot 107, 108 & Toyota Aygo Owners Club

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2017 1:54 pm 
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Over time you and l have had lots of posts and pm’s on this topic. Since l have owned my Jacky it’s been my greatest problem and challenge. Once solved you’ll always be checking the boot carpet just in case l do 18 months later.
Sorry owners crack it first time others like us don’t, simple as that. Sorry

After 3 try’s fixing the rear light leaks, new sponges (Ebay) sealant rubbish, used a cleaned up sponge seal glued in place. On the bulb holders and this strange looking arrangement on the bodywork.ImageImage

The tape is tucked into the back of the same body skin, not across into the boot area. The second picture shows were l broke the top clip removing the light unit when it had the dam sealant on it.
Sorry l don’t have the photo of inside the boot area.

Remove all carpets from the sides it’s only 2 the clip on the side panel is a bit fiddly. From memory push it in just a little bit and it pops and is removable. The carpets can then be slid down. Then get busy with your baby talc.

Make sure the spare is put maybe between the backseat/front seat and that the rubber drain plugs are out.
Have fun
I did buying the Talc


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 8:15 pm 
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Thanks for another detailed, informative post Brixtonboy! I have had my carpets out on and off for some weeks now. (You are correct, you do push in the centres of the clips you mentioned. The centres click back a little then the clip can be withdrawn. I have broken these in the past by not pressing the middle down).

I used to check my 2007 for leaks once per week... The newer car gets checked every time it rains.

I tightened the tailgate latch, re-tightening the screws whilst holding it back as far as it goes today. A polythene glove clamped between seal and glass proved the pressure is terribly weak (both before and after adjusting the latch.

I am so fed up, I haven't done a hosepipe test this time. Knowing my luck, I will have made the leak much worse!

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 8:37 pm 
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Hi just logged on, just to be sure, when you say you tightened the tailgate latch, you mean by, standing from the back of the car and moving the latch towards the front, yes?


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 9:32 pm 
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Yes, exactly that.

Specifically, I loosened the bolts a little, pushed the latch towards the front of the car with my palm and checked it was square (I could still see the edge of the cutout in the metal below it so use that to judge it was still square). Then I did up the bolts whilst maintaining pressure from my palm.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 10:34 pm 
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When l adjusted mine l made 2 marks with a marker to make sure it stayed were it was in case l wanted to put it back. Not that it matters.
I know this is a silly question, however l will ask it anyway I guess it’s not possible that that the seal is on the wrong way around?
My car is in the street at the moment but tomorrow when it’s light l will take a photo of it.
Have you got the Talc down?


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 10:48 pm 
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brixtonboy wrote:
When l adjusted mine l made 2 marks with a marker to make sure it stayed were it was in case l wanted to put it back. Not that it matters.


I did think about doing that but didn't in the end! I might regret not doing so if the leak gets worse! Stupid, I know but I was a bit flustered after I got stuck doing the brakes and had to put everything back the way it started.

brixtonboy wrote:
I know this is a silly question, however l will ask it anyway I guess it’s not possible that that the seal is on the wrong way around?
My car is in the street at the moment but tomorrow when it’s light l will take a photo of it.


I am not sure what you mean. There is an obvious join in the rubber in the middle of the bottom - below the tailgate latch.

brixtonboy wrote:
Have you got the Talc down?


Not yet - still just bog roll taped in place. I'm afraid the second failed attempt on the brake job (today) and the cleanup of my tools and garage and scrape in the paintwork from my torque wrench handle took the whole day unfortunately. Apparently there is a powder that's a bit like talc but comes in an aerosol (I think) and changes colour when it gets wet making the trail really clear. My father-in-law is a mechanic and is supposed to be finding out what it's called.

I remember the mess the talc made in the last car but I still think it might be a good idea. If I don't hear from my FIL in the next couple of days there is a bottle of talc here bought some time ago for exactly this scenario. Thanks for sticking with me on this one. Between us, we probably have more experience with these leaking and the attempts to find a cure than anyone else! I have a horrible feeling it's going to be those vents again (behind the bumper0 - if so I am not sure how I will ensure a good seal without blocking them off - the surface of the paintwork where the vents' gasket sits isn't perfectly flat due to the remains of silicone sealant. I tested it using a bit syringe to carefully direct a jet of water but am still a bit suspicious. If money was no object, I would be looking to get the area around them taken back to steel and resprayed (since it's behind the bumper, it wouldn't need to be a neat job but I'd bet it would cost a fair bit.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 07, 2017 11:00 pm 
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When l take the photo tomorrow l’ll you’ll see what l mean. Never heard of the stuff in spray can, do agree though that Talc is a mess to clean up.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2017 12:20 pm 
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Here’s the photo, was just wondering if someone had possibly put the seal on inside out as it were. But it’s just not really logical. I checked last last on your Ebay for the leak detector stuff, no luck.
But with the carpets out it’s fairly easy to clean up anyway. I did mine with some of the carpet in that was my problem.
ImageImage

We will get there in the end.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2017 12:58 pm 
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Just saw the all gear you have to repair your car. Wish l had that lot, had to leave mine in England.
I would seriously like to make a suggestion, if you have a problem with your braking system, then that must take priority over the water leak.
Forget the leak until the brakes are fixed.

Mine was leaking for years before l owned it, it still passes the 2 year MOT.
So much condensation in the car it was unbelievable in Winter. Now l don’t need the rear screen element thing.


Stupid me l keep forgetting to ask, what year is your car.
Also l re-read your last post about adjusting the latch.

Do the brakes


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2017 3:20 pm 
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Thanks man. I will phone some back street garages and ask nicely if they'll fit my brakes.

I've probably spent £60-70 in tools and sundries for this brake job (plus £56 for brakes). The disc I fought with is at or just under minimum (18mm) depending where I measure but the pads are ok. It's a very late 2011 car - just before phase III and all that piston slap stuff. Bought it at 21000 miles and now 23k so I knew from here that the factory-fit chocolate discs would need work. Breaker bar and rost off ice only got the top bolt off. I needs more room than a single garage and probably better tools to do the bottom one.

In agony today from throwing my weight about on the bar and garage floor. Made a mess of touching up the scratch I made in the paintwork so I'll need to sand and polish the lacquer too.

I'm really sick of this car now!

Sent from my KIW-L21 using Tapatalk

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