Citroen C1, Peugeot 107, 108 & Toyota Aygo Owners Club. (Discount code for CityBugStore: C1OC)

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 8:54 pm 
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As l'm always telling members to disconnect the battery like in the manual, no one ever does.
It's a pain sockets or spanners, with this one you only
need to turn the green knob an inch.
Underneath it is a white plastic piece that insulates the
2 parts from each other.

Pretty sure Reedy's got one on the MR2 or something similar


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 9:04 pm 
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I see nothing wrong with the old fashioned traditional clamp and bolt method

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 9:05 pm 
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That's 'cause your a Rebel


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 9:08 pm 
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Yeah I had one for when it was off the road

Took it off as I found it made starting a little harder

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 9:09 pm 
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Reedy wrote:
Yeah I had one for when it was off the road

Took it off as I found it made starting a little harder

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Why did you investigate?


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 9:09 pm 
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What?

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 9:10 pm 
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The difference in starting


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 9:25 pm 
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Just felt different and the only thing I had done was add this clap so removed it and it's been fine

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 10:12 pm 
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well don't know why your's felt different, after fitting mine l must have stopped and started at about 6 or 7 places and l would not have known.

The only reason l can think of is that your a REBEL


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2017 1:22 am 
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I guess if the connection isn't as good as it should be, the resistance would go up and, as a result, the current go down. If that happens, you might notice something on a car that was a bit of a difficult starter anyway.

However, it would worry me if enough resistance to be noticed had been introduced to a system that has such a high current passing through the wires (even if typically only for a short time). The current drawn by a starter motor is typically 60-150A but in some cases it can be 250A or even more - sometimes much more. I guess our cars are down near the 60A though.

I was more interested in one of these for my MR2 as well, rather than the C1 (although, if they do work well, I might get one for that too). Of course, if they are genuinely problematic, then I'd rather not fit one. A well constructed switch (and I guess it is just a switch when it comes down to it) really shouldn't be affecting the circuit in any perceivable way when it is in the on position.


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