Citroen C1, Peugeot 107, 108 & Toyota Aygo Owners Club. (Discount code for CityBugStore: C1OC)

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PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2017 10:25 am 
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Joined: Tue May 16, 2017 9:59 pm
Posts: 1
Drives: 107 (2009)
I brought my 2009 107 9 months ago. It had 1 previous only and has now covered just 30k miles. It has had a cushy life, been very well looked after and had a main dealer major service last week. It is the very basic Urban Lite with no central locking. Sorry if I've gone overboard with detail, but I'd love to know if anyone else has had this problem or if the parts Peugeot use are really that rubbish, or I'm just unlucky.

A few weeks ago I suddenly started having problems inserting the main key into the ignition lock. It went from perfect to iffy to complete refusal almost overnight. The main key will only go in half way, it has also stopped working in the driver's door. I had never used the spare, and find that it doesn't work in the passenger door or petrol cap. It currently works in the ignition, but is now at the iffy stage. I can't currently use the car as am worried about getting stranded.

The main dealer said the locks (inc ignition) are corroded 'because its an old car'. I called an automotive locksmith who said the lock problems are rare and it will be the key. I took the car over and he examined the key and the locks. He said the key pattern is so extreme that it has prematurely worn out the internal lock components. The key pattern zig-zags repeatedly across the whole width of the key. He said it wasn't worth him selling me another key and that the locks need replacing.

The locks are about £300, and Peugeot will charge just over £200 inc VAT 'fixed price' based on 1.7 hours labour. I've phoned a couple of independents, and after querying why I'm getting the locks changed, have said that the Peugeot quote sounds good as it could take ages.

Am I going overboard replacing the locks? Is there anything else it might be? Is the main dealer quote good value, or am I going to get caught out?

Many thanks,

Paul


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PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2017 1:17 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 06, 2012 4:19 pm
Posts: 4083
Drives: 2006 C1
I reckon you're right to have doubts. My car is 3 years older than your and the keys fit fine. I do lube the door locks although l have central locking. And the fuel cap.
If the spare goes in and turns and the car starts ok l don't see how the ignition barrel can be " corroded "
The fault may simply be the that key need a little lube.
Don't use WD40 only a lube that is suitable for electrics.
You can also get a new key from yours and replace the electrics and the special coded chip, without which your car will not start.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2017 7:34 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 14, 2012 5:19 pm
Posts: 736
Location: Devon
Drives: C1 VTR 2011, Grey
Here's my lock story:

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=5528

The car went on with no further lock problems until I traded it in for this one in February this year. Over the last couple of years I had been giving the locks a brief squirt no more than once every 6 months (but the car was kept in a garage for about the last 3 years of ownership).

Greases and oils can cause rubber to swell so be careful if your try this... In my experience, it is also a pig to get off of paintwork - I stuck the straw into each lock and "sealed" it with a tightly wrapped rag.

White grease fixed the problem for me but please don't blame me if it ruins anything for you.

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Drives C1 VTR 2011

Used to drive C1 Vibe 2007


Last edited by 74hct04 on Tue May 23, 2017 7:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2017 7:37 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 14, 2012 5:19 pm
Posts: 736
Location: Devon
Drives: C1 VTR 2011, Grey
One last note: With that car, the spare key was far less worn that the main one and was always very rough in the locks. After regular lubrication, the main key became smooth in use but every time it got even slightly rough, the can of grease came back out...

(The key was so worn in fact that you could see a necking down of the blade on both edges).

With my new, central-locked C1, I have got into the habbit of a regular manual lock, just in case...

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Drives C1 VTR 2011

Used to drive C1 Vibe 2007


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2018 4:57 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 04, 2018 11:27 pm
Posts: 4
Drives: C1Vibe5dr1.0 2008
Hi all

Just thought that I'd add my experience with C1 door locks in case it helps anybody else.

Had the car (a Vibe 2008 125k miles) a couple of months before I started to have problems unlocking the drivers door. Both keys fine in the boot, petrol cap and ignition - not so good in the doors. Searched the forums here for thoughts and started a campaign with penetrating oil and white grease, but to no avail. Finally bit the bullet today and stripped the doors down - straightforward enough if you have a set of trim tools. The trickiest part was working out how to disengage the circlip on the manual window handles. The barrels are sealed units and it was the same pin on both that was sticking. Keys don't look worn so concluded it was the barrel that was the problem. Flush, clean, flush, clean - no better. Replacement C1 barrels seem to be difficult to source outside of main dealers and expensive (£250 for a lock set) bearing in mind that the car cost me the princely sum of £998. Couldn't be bothered trailing around breakers and ending up with multiple keys.

Time for a think!

If I could get the barrels apart, I'd just take out the offending pin, but not an option in this case. Instead, I took a 4mm metal drill and drilled the sticking pin and the barrel out/down to the point that they were no longer fouling. It's quite straightforward if you take the cam arm off the barrel and lock it in a vice. Rinsed all of the swarf out of the lock with GT85, packed it with white grease and - hey presto - the door locks are now functional again. Okay, I've slightly reduced the security of the locks, but they aren't great to start with!

Hope that this may help another lock sufferer avoid a big bill for an old car.


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