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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 7:40 pm 
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wee mac wrote:
74hct04 wrote:
wee mac wrote:
A new boot seal will help just make sure that the boot rim/lip is perfectly dirt free and clean before fitting the new one

You will just have to unbolt the boot strut to get the seal out


Thanks Wee Mac. I am expecting a little rust under there so will take your advice onboard.

Thanks for your video on the disc and pad change btw. I am soon to tackle that job and it's a good reference. :thumbs:


Edit: New torque wrench is due to be delivered tomorrow - looks like brakes might be this weekend! If you don't hear from me, I am either on a test drive or pinned under the car :lol:




Ohhh man I forgot I did that video.... I sound like an idiot, if you need some translation just message me haha

Like the video says... axel stands I never work on the floor without them



Don't worry - you sound fine. Better you say it your own way than sound like you're reading a script.

wee mac wrote:
Also remember the hi lev brake light mine is starting to leak again even after the silicone treatment


Not suprised I'm afraid. Not sure about the "improved" tacky foam seal but the older design definately has suffers from the foam cracking and deteriorating - I saw it on my 2007 car and have done on other people's inc a 2012 phase III C1. If the silicone isn't 100% filling the gap, that could be it. Also silicone sticks badly to a lot of plastics (but very well to bodywork - trust me!) so it could have come unstuck or weathered. The Wurth underwater stuff worked for me.

I have about 4 spare hi level brake lights in the garage - all now preused. Once compressed, the foam will stay that way forever. (For what it's worth, those aftermarket seals I bought for the main rear light clusters stay compressed too but the original factory seals on the clusters spring back in in due course - i have enough spare light clusters in the garage to prove this). My latest brand new high level seemed to be leaking at the seal between the lens and back plate (the opaque red plastic) around the screw. Expoy carefully applied between the screw head and lens seems to have fixed that.

Seriously, I have done every convcievable leak fix, several times on my cars - the only exception being the boot seal!

As for the axel stands - thank you. This will be my first attempt at using them. I am so anal about not scratching paint on the subframe / around the sill pinch welds to have bought specially designed rubber blocks to fit the stands tops. If this backfires it's all my fault!

By the way, will the sill "pinches" buckle if supported by axel stands? (I mean the bits the spare wheel scissor jack is supposed to engage)...

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 7:53 pm 
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I should list all the spare C1 parts I have in the garage but I fear you lot would rip the **** out of me (as my colleagues do) if I did. I hate waiting for the postman or courier company from hell when I have a broken car ;).

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 8:23 pm 
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Cheers man I’m glad the video helps 1 person at least.

There are some strengthened beams running under the floor that I always use for m axel stands.and jacking with a trolley jack

The sill sections are only meant for a jack with a U piece anything else will bend them

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 8:37 pm 
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wee mac wrote:
Cheers man I’m glad the video helps 1 person at least.

There are some strengthened beams running under the floor that I always use for m axel stands.and jacking with a trolley jack

The sill sections are only meant for a jack with a U piece anything else will bend them



Cheers! I think I know exactly the beams you mean. I have bought a rubbish short wheelbase jack so will be careful where I put that too. (Probably subframe if I can reach it).

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 9:00 pm 
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Any chance you can post a photo of this “rubbish short wheelbase jack” before you put it under your subframe?


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 9:04 pm 
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It's from Halfords :oops: and has been sitting in the garage for a couple of years.

I fully expect it to be made of choclate. Fun awaits me!

(Got to hit the sack shortly I'm afraid - my 5:15am alarm clock is a killer)

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Last edited by 74hct04 on Thu Oct 05, 2017 9:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 9:04 pm 
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Forgot the link.

Here is the kit I am embarrased to own:

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/ ... ifting-kit

This is probably the same jack:
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/ ... wheel-base

I have bought shaped rubber pads for both the jack and axel stands.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 9:08 pm 
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Who knows what state the kit will be in in the box - it has never been opened. I will be sure to carefully prime / purge the jack (or whatever it is you are supposed to do) before use.

In case anyone is interested, I am awaiting delivery of a Sealey AK624 torque wrench. Review here: http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessorie ... nches-2017. (I don't trust my Lidl torque wrench's calibration as it has been a few years since I used it... Frankly I never did anyway).

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 9:29 pm 
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Glad to read that you haven’t given up the fight yet. Keep the carpets out of the boot and it WILL be fixed. I read that the rear seal is on it’s way, good news.
However before it’s fitted you should make sure it’s required, by getting water sprayed onto the rear. Not jet force just from on high as is where. Whilst you or someone is inside. When l did this water was coming in, and l adjusted the boot lock slightly keeping it square. The water still came in, so a new seal was fitted.

Tools l needed A hammer and small block of wood and rags.
The setting for the seal was cleaned. Oiled the channel in the seal because it was soo tight, good or bad don’t know.
Started to fit it but kept having bulging, this was the reason for the hammer, lightly going around, with the wood block on the rubber and tapping it down until everything fit and made a solid cluck under the hammer.
Then the glass was tight to close, now that told me something. After 18 months no water and the glass is OK.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2017 12:53 pm 
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Thanks for that excellent guide Brixtonboy! I will have a go if / when the car needs a new seal.

I forgot to say that every time I make a change, I check the boot and lights with a hosepipe and no carpets. Bone dry every time!

The car is in my garage overnight as this is noted in my insurance policy so it only gets a real life test ay work. I have been parking in spaces which cause the boot to be higher than the bonnet of the car so this might be a factor. Often, when it rains, the spare wheel and jack are covered in condensation and I have also found water (maybe condensation) under the carpet by the strut top covers and down into the boot floor. There is little of and it covers a large area. Currently have lots of squares of toilet roll (!) Taped in the path from strut cover to boot floor but it's not helping me trace anything. I think I will need to try talc / leak detection powder tbh.

Maybe I have jumped the gun with the boot seal but I am tempted to replace it anyway!

Sent from my KIW-L21 using Tapatalk

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