Citroen C1, Peugeot 107, 108 & Toyota Aygo Owners Club. (Discount code for CityBugStore: C1OC)

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2020 4:01 pm 
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MPJ wrote:
to get a desired voltage drop, generally about 0.7v per diode, so would probably need 14'ish to get down to 4 to 4.5v or use a resister as you say.
That is novel Haha.
If you're set on using diodes, red/blue/white leds have a Vf of ~2-2.5v depending on the batch and colour. I design and build amplifiers & effects for musicians in my other life and whilst you're not dealing with small signal audio, a chain of 14 diodes sounds like a nightmare! You would also need to include a current limiting resistor or they wouldn't last long. V=IR

Agreed - I've given it a bit more thought and something like this would probably work better, be cheaper and a lot simpler! :-)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/DollaTek-L7805 ... B07DJWN95S


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2020 5:43 pm 
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Isnt the out put from the sensor a square wave ?

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2020 6:00 pm 
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Hmm, not sure on the second sensor, I thought that it was a steady signal but might be wrong. In my case it doesn't seem to matter as, after a soak with Plus Gas and a good kick on an open spanner, I've removed the second lambda sensor and my C1 seems completely unperturbed. No warning lights or anything untoward. I've taken it for a decent run, switched it on and off a couple of times and all seems completely as normal. I don't know if it's because I've unplugged it completely from the wiring loom in the engine bay, but it's not missed at all. I'm not complaining - job done with no further complications. The engine does feel more pokey, based on initial impressions. Cheap (£4.00) and easy boost - just need to remember to put it back in for the MoT :-)


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2020 6:01 pm 
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In your 2nd life, Could you have a look at the output and confirm whats happening ?

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2020 10:09 pm 
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SlackGarry wrote:
Isnt the out put from the sensor a square wave ?

Is that a fuzz joke? :lol:

I don't know anything about lambda sensors besides their intended function tbh.

MPJ wrote:
No warning lights or anything untoward. I've taken it for a decent run, switched it on and off a couple of times and all seems completely as normal.

The engine does feel more pokey, based on initial impressions.

That's awesome you got it done man, and great if you've noticed a difference on an (I'm assuming) otherwise standard engine. Have you done anything else to the car at all?

The light will come on eventually I'm afraid, mine can take a couple of hundred miles running before it decides there's an emissions issue.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 12:12 am 
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Yep, the engine and exhaust is bog standard and definitely notice the difference. As you predicted, engine the light has come on after another run this evening. I'm gonna look into suppressing it, although spoofing a square wave sounds tricky. My understanding is that the first lambda sensor has a much more complicated job to do because of the ECU managing fuel injection and ignition. This one has the rather simpler job of just checking that the cat is working, so I'm hoping that a steady 5v DC signal will do the job.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 12:31 am 
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From https://autoditex.com/page/lambda-senso ... -21-1.html

Zirconium sensor after the catalytic converter.
With a properly working catalytic converter, the oxygen sensor signal will be a straight line at level 0.5V…0.6 V. Output voltage can also be measured with a digital voltmeter. If signal varies and it is close in shape to the signal from the sensor before the catalytic converter, this means the catalytic converter is not working properly.

So, the second lambda should produce a steady signal with a signal at 0.5v, so I was along the right lines, but a factor of ten out.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 6:44 am 
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MPJ wrote:
From https://autoditex.com/page/lambda-senso ... -21-1.html

Zirconium sensor after the catalytic converter.
With a properly working catalytic converter, the oxygen sensor signal will be a straight line at level 0.5V…0.6 V. Output voltage can also be measured with a digital voltmeter. If signal varies and it is close in shape to the signal from the sensor before the catalytic converter, this means the catalytic converter is not working properly.

So, the second lambda should produce a steady signal with a signal at 0.5v, so I was along the right lines, but a factor of ten out.


Thats great news, Let us know how you get on.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 5:08 pm 
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Okay, I'm taking the simple approach initially - an AA battery with a voltage divider made up with a couple of resistors (10 ohm and 5.6 ohm) should give me a stable 0.54v DC without blowing anything up (bits ordered from eBay). I'm playing it safe 'cos I'm not confident how stable a 0.5v supply I can get out of a 12v feed that could vary between 10v and 14.5v under normal operating conditions. Bunkey also has a (probably far more) cunning plan - he knows considerably more than I do about electronics so let's wait to see what he comes up with. The battery pack can act as a proof of concept - if 0.54v across the signal wires spoofs the sensor and keeps the engine light out then we can look at a more long term solution - or just change the battery now and again ;-)


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 5:20 pm 
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I tried to message you but its stuck in my out box...

I have a working prototype that's a plug & play unit.

I'm trying to find a supplier for the connectors but when I do, assuming the testing goes well, I'll offer these as kits along with a blanking plug for anyone looking to derestrict the down pipe and/or run a decat manifold.

MPJ, I'll send you one to test as soon as I get hold of another connector.

The finished units have a proper sealed casing, no gaffer tape :lol:

Image

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