Citroen C1, Peugeot 107, 108 & Toyota Aygo Owners Club. (Discount code for CityBugStore: C1OC)

thanks to the info on this thread i managed to adjust the free play slack on mine. its easy to do and reach since i dont have air con. i can imagine how bad it would be for air con guys to do. gone from 5cm free play to 2.5cm free play. much better feel on the pedal. hopefully this allows more clutch disengagement since sometime my clutch would drag a bit making it hard to get 1st and reverse with the engine running.

Hi all, thanks for the info on this post, helped enormously to adjust the clutch on a Peugeot 108 that had a really high biting point, however, I hit a couple of problems that I thought I'd share.

Our 108 has aircon, and I was trying to adjust the black plastic nut as described earlier in the post, but, I could barely reach it, let alone get any grip on it. The solution was to remove the battery, then remove the battery tray. (4 bolts, 1 at front of battery, 2 underneath battery and 1 at top left, bolting it to fusebox) The battery tray is attached to the fuse box by a bolt and a couple of clips, but, removing the bolt on top right of the fusebox makes it far easier to unclip the tray. The battery tray just pulls out, and you then have far easier access to the adjustment nut.

When I tried to turn the nut, like other people, I had problems, and it wouldn't budge. I read the posts on the nut having a locating pin, and found that this indeed was where I was going wrong, however, I still couldn't get enough grip on the nut, and it needed to be pulled away from the pin, i.e. away from me.

The solution - a small electrical screwdriver pushed between the nut and the cable mount, just enough to move it a couple of mm, then the nut turned freely. You have enough room to get two hands in if you remove the battery tray, one to insert the screwdriver and lift the nut slightly, and the other to turn the nut.

I had to connect the battery a couple of times after experimenting with the adjustment to check the biting point, but in all, took about an hour, and well worth the effort.

Thread resurrection.

Found a simpler way of lifting the thread from the lock pin, with just one hand, without taking anything out. Unless you have an incredible thick forearm, then removing the battery and perhaps its tray altogether is the way to go.

I'm also the poor guy who's driving an A/C model that has the pipes in the way. The nut was almost impossible to move, specially with the lock pin in the way. I'm surprised most you lot was able to do it at first. Then I found why and then the solution for it.

Because the thread gets rusty and tight, the locking pin doesn't give you much room to play with the nut, to move some of that grease inside the thread to make it turn. Leaving us with the impossible option of pulling the thread to move the nut out of the locked position so we can spin it freely.

All you need is WD40 and a short flat head screwdriver.

Spray it with WD40 and give a minute to get deep into it. Then, with your right hand (pun intended :lol:) play around the base of the nut with the flat head. Almost immediately you'll feel the screwdriver slicing in and lifting the nut.

When this happens, try to use the flat head of the screwdriver under the nut just to push into to one direction. Doesn't matter which side. Just enough to move and catch some of the grease.

After that, let it sit, you shouldn't be worried about the locking pin anymore. And then, you will be able to move in the desired direction with the screwdriver, by pushing against the hollow gaps.

After the first half turn, it'll move like baby oil.

I want to give a special thanks to my forearm and my hand for the painful efforts to make it move before this idea. :lol:

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CITROEN C1 VTR+
On Dinossaurs Sludge
RECORD MPG: 81 (01/04/2017)
FUEL: TACOS 99'
On Cooking Gas
RECORD MPG: 55 (03/08/2019)
FUEL: NATURAL +110'

in the pic attached i have circled in red the peg that the clutch cable goes into. if you check you will see 2 additional holes in the plate. what happens if you move the clutch cable into one of the other holes? does it alter pedal height or actuation force?

Indeed!

After nearly losing a finger, in my attempts to jam the clutch, I found a much simpler way of getting enough slack to turn the 'cruciform nut' ...

...LIFT the clutch pedal and hold it in that position with a suitable object.

Having said that the clutch release mechanism on this car looks different to the pictures already posted. (It's a 2015 C1 1.2 Puretech)



EDIT

Although this statement was undoubtedly true when it was written, it seems to be out of date now.

I just watched this (relatively) recently posted video on YouTube and realised that the car I worked on is configured totally differently.

The clutch cable connects to the front of the engine and nothing had to be removed to access the adjuster. There was no rear, knurled nut - just a cruciform nut on the end of the cable. Half a turn was all that was needed to transform a ludicrously high bite point, into something more normal.

(I remain somewhat bemused, that they were still making cars with manually adjusted clutches in 2015!)

Saves the cost of a self adjusting mechanism?

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2008 C1 Code 1.0 I3 petrol
2015 Skoda Octavia 1.4TSI Elegance estate

Sadly missed - 2006 Audi RS4 Avant

Its a budget car, yet everyone wants gadgets and nice interior, so they had to cut the costs keeping the old mechanicals

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Was 05 C1 1.0 White



The NEW improved CityBugStore! - For all your C1, 107, 108 and Aygo needs. Support the club! Club Members Discount, enter code C1OC at checkout

I've edited the text and the links to the club recommended kits too. Cheers for the heads up.

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Was 05 C1 1.0 White



The NEW improved CityBugStore! - For all your C1, 107, 108 and Aygo needs. Support the club! Club Members Discount, enter code C1OC at checkout

I found access to the clutch adjustment on a 108 with aircon was easy if you removed the nearside front wheel.Providing you have reasonably long arms,and a light you can see the adjuster and access it. Make sure the car is properly secured on axle stands. Always work safely

I don't know if this this is relevant, but I was told while reading about clutch adjustments that you could always try it from underneath the car. That way the pipes don't get in the way.
Has anyone tried this approach?