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 Post subject: Re: Clutch Adjustment
PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 11:50 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2009 3:56 pm
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Location: Exeter, Devon
Drives: Was C1 1.0 2005
It turns by hand, get some gloves on!

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 Post subject: Re: Clutch Adjustment
PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 1:01 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 23, 2013 4:41 pm
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Drives: c1
I did, I can only get a few finger grip on in, I'm not Arnold Schwarzenegger, lol. I sprayed wd40 on it and will try later when car is back here. Can't even get pliers on it, so hidden away! :(


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 Post subject: Re: Clutch Adjustment
PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 2:45 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 27, 2009 3:56 pm
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Location: Exeter, Devon
Drives: Was C1 1.0 2005
WD40 will just make it harder to grip.

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 Post subject: Re: Clutch Adjustment
PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 3:15 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 23, 2013 4:41 pm
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Drives: c1
just letting it soak, will wipe off, just to possibly loosen it, might try mole grips gently on it, think it is plastic.?


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 Post subject: Re: Clutch Adjustment
PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2014 4:00 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 17, 2012 11:28 pm
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Location: Cracow, Poland
Drives: 107 & Zafira B
yes, it is made of plastic and it's dead easy to turn, so im pretty surprised you can't.


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 Post subject: Re: Clutch Adjustment
PostPosted: Sun Apr 06, 2014 7:59 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 23, 2013 4:41 pm
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Drives: c1
Adjusted it loads, ok for a while, but gave up, C1store clutch £100 and labour £200, perfect now. :D


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 Post subject: Re: Clutch Adjustment
PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2014 8:08 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 05, 2014 11:19 am
Posts: 1
Drives: Aygo Sport 3006
Hi to all on here, many thanks for all the useful hints and tips on the Aygo clutch problems all of which I have recently suffered.

Most of the advice listed is accurate but I recently came across a technical bulletin which explains in detail the exact procedure for adjusting the clutch and in particular the correct pedal height adjustment and how to disengage the locking pin on the clutch cable adjusting screw which is why some people (including me) initially struggle with trying to turn it. Once you know how simple it is to unlock it, it is really easy to turn and can be done in seconds.

Unfortunately this site won't let me upload PDF files so here is a link which will enable you to download it yourselves :-

http://garagewire.co.uk/wp-content/uplo ... age%20Wire


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 Post subject: Re: Clutch Adjustment
PostPosted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 9:24 am 
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Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2014 6:42 pm
Posts: 1
Drives: 08 Aygo Plainum
Thanks everyone for this informative thread.

I recently bought an 08 Aygo Platinum which had a replacement clutch fitted. The bite was ridiculously high and made it very easy to over rev while waiting for clutch engagement ... with the degree of slip I thought a third clutch would soon be needed! I found this site while looking for a solution. Result? There was zero pedal free play.

Because of this, it was impossible to ease the plastic adjuster clear of the rubbery 'locking pin' as Teabreak's link so it was necessary to lever the flat clutch release arm carefully and place a suitable sized socket between the arm and bell housing so that I had free hands to deal with adjustment. This wasn't helped by the aircon pipes and the two rubber covered gear selector cables.

By disconnecting the top gear selector cable (making sure the spring clip didn't fly off) and moving the battery as far right as it would go - I was ready for the simple task of turning the plastic adjuster ... or so I thought. It was seized solid. The only way I could direct WD40 accurately was to use a two foot length of thin poly pipe - directing the bottom end by feel onto the seized thread and then spray the WD40 down the top end of the pipe. But the adjuster remained solid.

Because it was visible with the top gear selector cable out of the way - I noticed that the far end of the clutch cable has a cross shaped adjuster which locks into place in a recess ... much easier to use because of being visible and fairly clear of obstructions. By slackening it off I was able to restore a 25mm pedal clearance. What a positive difference it makes to driving! Selecting first is sometimes a bit resistent so I might tighten things up a tad to improve this.

The Aygo replaced a SEAT Arosa 3-cylinder 1.4 turbo diesel which has quite a bit more grunt but overall it is a great little local runabout and the aircon works immediately which is a big plus. It's amazing how quiet it is at 70 after the Arosa and the suspension is heaps better. The electric PAS works well too ... overall a brilliant package now the clutch is sorted.



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 Post subject: Re: Clutch Adjustment
PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2016 2:08 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2014 3:52 pm
Posts: 1
Drives: C1 Airplay
There are an awful lot of misleading comments on this thread. The key is to give yourself a bit of slack in the cable so that the locking pin disengages. The best way to do this is to use a large screwdriver to level between the gearbox housing and the arm that connects the cable to the clutch. This is the bit that you see moving under the bonnet when someone pushes the pedal. If you lever this back a bit with your right hand then it slacks the cable and allows the big adjustment nut to move back (with the outer cable) and so it disengages from the pin and turns easily with your left hand.


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 Post subject: Re: Clutch Adjustment
PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2017 5:51 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 14, 2017 7:59 pm
Posts: 28
Drives: C max
Well, after an enjoyable couple of hours, I've adjusted the clutch.

To turn the adjusting nut you need some slack in the cable.
To get some slack in the cable turn the adjusting nut.

Reminds me of the instructions in the service manual of the Hillman Imp.
'To remove the exhaust manifold first remove the engine.
To remove the engine first remove the exhaust manifold'
The restricted access also bring back memories.

Our car has air con so access is more restricted than usual, so I removed the air filter cover. This allowed me to get my left arm down to the left of the air con pipes.
Then the upper gear change cable was disconnected from the arm, and the outer cable slid out of the bracket after removing the sliding clip. The spring (anti rattle) was also removed from the clutch arm.

Image

The picture above shows the upper gear cable removed from it's swivel pin on the right. You can see the spring in the centre of the picture which has a hook at each end.

With the clutch pedal depresssed, a bolt was jammed between the clutch arm and the casing, this meant that when the pedal was released the arm could not return.

Image

This created the slack in the cable allowing the adjuster to be pulled away from the bracket and turned. This allowed the cruciform shaped nut at the end of the cable to move away from its location on the arm.

Image

The picture above shows the cruciform nut in it's location on the clutch release lever.
I would think this could be also be used to adjust the cable as already suggested before in this thread. It had to be held back in the proper location when the pedal was depressed and the jammed bolt removed. The amount of turns will probably have some trial and error involved to get correct adjustment.
I removed the lower gear change cable from it's arm and greased the swivel pin before replacement.
The picture also shows the lower gear cable swivel pin with the hole for the spring clip.
This was repeated for the upper gear change cable. Don't forget to replace the spring.

My son reported that the biting point was much lower, but the gear changes were still easy.

Thanks to all that posted some good advice here.

I think I'll chalk that up as a success.

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